What Causes The Brakes To Come On Without Applying The Brake Pedal On A 2002 Chevy Silverado? Vacuum leak to the booster or bad booster. Where the vacuum lines comes into the booster, make sure it's seated. ...
Not cheating. just help
each question is answered like:
1.The brake pedal of a high-mileage car is sluggish and moderately hard to apply:
Technician A says vacuum leaks or restrictions may exist between the engine and the booster.
Technician B says mechanical wear or damage to the engine may have reduced the available vacuum.
2. An intake manifold check valve for vacuum power brakes is being discussed:
Technician A says the valve closes to retain vacuum in the booster.
Technician B says the valve closes to ...
1983 Ford F150 4WD, 302 motor with brake booster. The power brake booster unit was replaced about 2 years ago with a rebuilt. Truck driven less than 3000 miles since. When brakes are applied, a loud creaking seems to be the end of the Power Booster come when the pedal rod connects. The master cylinder is leaking fluid into the Verdichterstation.Ist lubricate her something on the pedal end of the booster? It is through a cap, which requires the device to ...
The truck is a 2000 Chevy Silverado. I replaced all brake components on the rear axle shortly after buying it(used). I've also bled the brakes(all of them in the proper order) 3 times and they are still too weak to lock up the tires and kick in the ABS. The pedal feels a little squishy if I lightly press on it. i don't want to pull apart the master just on a hunch. the booster was one ...
86 Toyota Pickup. After truck is cool you can drive for about 2 miles and it seems as though the front brakes are locking up. The pedal also gets very hard. The rear brakes are staying cool. Both fronts are getting hot. Can allow truck to cool completely and drive again for a short distance before locking up. When first taking off, after allowing to fully cool, it seems to ride pretty free with no drag. With the resistance getting strong ...
I know my brake booster is bad, thats the code it flashes when we run the tests on it, my question is, could that and my MASSIVEEEE!! (its nasty) exhaust leak be the reason it runs sooo crappy. i mean, my brakes dont even work half of the time and its like whenever we put a new (rebuilt) booster in the brakes get worse but they said it has to be the booster thats making the brakes not work. but, anyways, ...
I have a 78 Camaro. 350 V8 SBC, Edelbrock Performer intake, Holley 650 cfm carb, Flowtech headers by Holley, Cherry bomb glass pack dual exhaust directly bolted onto header collectors, and Comp cam with .470 lift.
The brakes (disc front and drum rear), rotors, and master cylinder / brake booster were recently replaced by a local shop. The car has a HARD break pedal with minimal stopping power which I suspect is due to vacuum lines improperly routed connected. Currently I ...
I have a hydraulic brake booster in my car (1994 Nissan Cedric - a Japanese luxury sedan), and from what i can gather, the hydraulic boosters are somewhat rare (most cars have vaccuum boosters).
Lately though i have been getting a warning beep to tell me that pressure in the system is dropping below a certain limit. Its very intermittent (once every 20-30 times i press the brakes) and brakes feel fine/car stops etc.
Checking the workshop manual it suggests replacing the ...
1979 F150 4x4 460/C6/205. Sometimes starts and runs fine for 15-20 min. Then falls on it's face and hardly runs. Sometimes starts rough & runs rough right away. Replaced plugs, plug wires, distributor, dist.cap & rotor, control module, voltage regulator, coil, swapped carbs, checked compression on all 8, it's always getting fuel and spark, replaced all vacuum lines, fittings. Timing is good, can't find any external vacuum leaks. Voltage at coil is OK, changed intake gasket too. Could ...
2000 Dodge Dakota
Takes way too long to start when cool/cold.
Hesitates when backing when brakes are engaged.
Hesitates to almost a stall when accelerating when cool/cold.
Late shifting when cool/cold with 3/4 to full throttle. No problem with 1/2 throttle acceleration.
(Sounds like a vacuum leak to me, but if not let me know.)
Parts replaced/things tried:
Distributor cap and rotor
Throttle position sensor
PCV valve and hose
Transmission oil and gasket (dropped pan, NOT a flush)
Used Seafoam to clean intake, crankcase and injectors