Asked on May 11, 2010
Not cheating. just help
each question is answered like:
1.The brake pedal of a high-mileage car is sluggish and moderately hard to apply:
Technician A says vacuum leaks or restrictions may exist between the engine and the booster.
Technician B says mechanical wear or damage to the engine ...
Asked on Jun 8, 2010
1983 Ford F150 4WD, 302 motor with brake booster. The power brake booster unit was replaced about 2 years ago with a rebuilt. Truck driven less than 3000 miles since. When brakes are applied, a loud creaking seems to be the end of the Power Booster ...
Asked on May 14, 2010
The truck is a 2000 Chevy Silverado. I replaced all brake components on the rear axle shortly after buying it(used). I've also bled the brakes(all of them in the proper order) 3 times and they are still too weak to lock up the tires ...
Asked on May 28, 2010
86 Toyota Pickup. After truck is cool you can drive for about 2 miles and it seems as though the front brakes are locking up. The pedal also gets very hard. The rear brakes are staying cool. Both fronts are getting hot. Can allow truck to ...
Asked on Apr 24, 2010
I know my brake booster is bad, thats the code it flashes when we run the tests on it, my question is, could that and my MASSIVEEEE!! (its nasty) exhaust leak be the reason it runs sooo crappy. i mean, my brakes dont even work half ...
Asked on May 29, 2010
I have a 78 Camaro. 350 V8 SBC, Edelbrock Performer intake, Holley 650 cfm carb, Flowtech headers by Holley, Cherry bomb glass pack dual exhaust directly bolted onto header collectors, and Comp cam with .470 lift.
The brakes (disc front and drum rear), rotors, and master ...
Asked on Mar 31, 2010
I have a hydraulic brake booster in my car (1994 Nissan Cedric - a Japanese luxury sedan), and from what i can gather, the hydraulic boosters are somewhat rare (most cars have vaccuum boosters).
Lately though i have been getting a warning beep to tell me ...
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