My Car Will Cut Off While Driving Or Stopping At A Red Light What Can Be Causeing That

Posted in Internal Engine Parts

My car will cut off while driving or stopping at a red light, what can be causeing that?

There are 3 Answers for "My Car Will Cut Off While Driving Or Stopping At A Red Light What Can Be Causeing That"

    1. Wrenched says:

      About a hundred different things…get the codes pulled and explained to you.

    2. Herdevil says:

      We can guess at a lot of things, like fuel problem,ignition or timing, vacuum leak the best thing is either take it to a garage or buy yourself a code scanner and book.

    3. Thomas R. says:

      —Whenever asking a car question you should always include the year, make and model. Engine size also helps. There’s so many different wiring configurations and sensors these days and not too many are alike. In some instances, this really doesn’t matter… like “Why does my car pull to the side when I brake?”, but in this case it could be over twenty reasons.

      —So, first…
      1) Does it have the correct amount/mixture of coolant in it?
      2) Oil?
      3) Is the cooling fan operating when the engine is at operating temperature?
      4) Are your motor mounts loose
      5) Do all the wires under the hood, going to the steel wall (firewall/bulkhead) separating the engine from the interior look in good condition?
      6) Is you brake reservoir filled to the Full* line?
      7) How many miles on the vehicle?
      8) Do you hear a hissing sound coming from under the hood?
      9) Do you hear any hissing under the car, below the driver’s seat?
      10) Are there any “RED LIGHTS” on the dash saying “SOMETHING’S WRONG”, like *Check_Engine*?
      11) Have you ever put green antifreeze (normally ethylene glycol) in when the owner’s manual called for red (normally propylene glycol)?

      1) Coolant level plays a major role in temperature. Too little antifreeze and the water will boil away, too much and it will gel up. between 60/40 & 70/30 is* the correct* amount (antifreeze being the higher number and only use distilled water).
      2) Oil will keep the engine lubricated thus keep it cool. Too much can interrupt the movement of parts, too thick can’s squeeze in where it needs to be, too thin can burn up quickly and too little can destroy an engine quicker than anything. Check oil at every fill-up with engine off. Owner’s manual says what oil, depending on ambient temperature in your environment.
      3) If the cooling fan doesn’t turn on, check fuse first and then test the fan. If it works, test the relay by switching it with another just like it. If that is also good, replace the relay.
      4) If the motor mounts are loose, when you accelerate, decelerate or experience road vibrations, the wire to the alternator or another major component can be stressed from tension.
      5) If you have burnt or loose wires, acceleration, deceleration or vibration can cause momentary shorts.
      6) Besides the normal strain on an engine when brake fluid is low, some vehicles can have a fail-safe function that won’t permit you to operate the vehicle if the brake warning is triggered.
      7) Old is old and dying is dying. Start with regular oil changes 3000 miles, checking vacuum lines, coolant system flush, replacing thermostat… the normal PM (Preventative/Periodic Maintenance)
      8) Could be a loose vacuum line.
      9) Could be a loose vacuum line to the vacuum pump (for brakes).
      10) Idiot lights are called idiot lights because once they go off, it is too late. Not to sound harsh, but they mean, “Now you’ve messed up; Take me to a mechanic”.
      11) You cannot mix propylene glycol and ethylene glycol. It will foam up and not only hamper cooling, but destroy the water pump and other components.

      —Seeing as how it happens only during those two actions, I would think a cooling problem or a vacuum problem when it comes to basics. When you are sitting still the air is only pulled through the radiator as fast as the fan is running. At high RPMs, the engine is working harder, but getting more air… unless the radiator fins are plugged. In that case, with low* water pressure from your garden hose, wash the bugs/dirt straight* out from between the cooling fins of your radiator… opposite the direction that the bugs/dirt flew in. When you are at high RPMs the vacuum produced by the engine is low, just as well as when the engine is braking or accelerating. It is a strain to do any of the three. If you have a vacuum line loose or cracked, you can experience a no* vacuum situation and that can even cause no air being sucked into the intake.

      —Lastly, if your car idles erratically… high, low, high , low, high, low, then I would say MAP sensor or Mass Air Flow (I have no idea what year/Make/Model/Engine).

      —If you have black smoke coming from the exhaust, it could be a number of things also, that are related to sensors like O2 Sensors.

      —If you have to give it gas for it to start (which you shouldn’t with TBI or EFI), often times a lot, and it is shifting awkwardly (if automatic), then I would expect the engine temperature sensor (not the coolant temp sensor for the fan) that signals the PCM (Power Control Module) and tells the ECM (Engine Control Module or “brain”) how warm the engine is to adjust much fuel you need, how much air you need, what RPMs you”re running, when to adjust fuel/air/RPMs for shifting and a whole bunch more, it can greatly effect economy, performance and your patience.

      —A thermostat and gasket runs about $20 tops. OBD Codes can be misread. Take it to a dealership for that.