Comments on: 350 Chevy Troubles Help http://www.carparts21.com/engine-drivetrain/internal-engine-parts/350-chevy-troubles-help/ Get the answers to common automotive repair questions, problems and troubleshooting. Thu, 09 Feb 2012 23:29:00 +0000 hourly 1 http://wordpress.org/?v=3.3.1 By: slipstream http://www.carparts21.com/engine-drivetrain/internal-engine-parts/350-chevy-troubles-help/#comment-24563 slipstream Wed, 02 Jun 2010 08:29:14 +0000 http://www.carparts21.com/engine-drivetrain/internal-engine-parts/350-chevy-troubles-help/#comment-24563 truck block may be the reason...I don't have the casting number,s here but you should have that checked ...truck block,s sometime,s are different than regular car block,s...usually are taller than car block,s ..but this depend,s on the block & what model it came from. this will affect head & intake angel,s which will affect gasket fit...especially if your using vortex head,s....also .040" is a bit much...was it tested after boring or before. make sure you have premium gasket,s & make sure they fit correctly.. torque is another issue...be sure you do it correctly...the last issue is the head,s...just because they're new doesn't mean they're matched to the block & over torquing aluminum head,s can easily crack them...be sure of what you have & what you have done...a cooling system/compression test will only tell you that you have a problem that you are already aware of...install the special cooling system dye, run it for a short time, tear it down & search for problem area,s with a ultraviolet / black light that will react with the dye..exposing any problem area,s....this dye is available at your local radiator shop & they can tell you where to obtain the correct light or possibly allow you to use their,s...good luck! truck block may be the reason…I don’t have the casting number,s here but you should have that checked …truck block,s sometime,s are different than regular car block,s…usually are taller than car block,s ..but this depend,s on the block & what model it came from. this will affect head & intake angel,s which will affect gasket fit…especially if your using vortex head,s….also .040″ is a bit much…was it tested after boring or before. make sure you have premium gasket,s & make sure they fit correctly.. torque is another issue…be sure you do it correctly…the last issue is the head,s…just because they’re new doesn’t mean they’re matched to the block & over torquing aluminum head,s can easily crack them…be sure of what you have & what you have done…a cooling system/compression test will only tell you that you have a problem that you are already aware of…install the special cooling system dye, run it for a short time, tear it down & search for problem area,s with a ultraviolet / black light that will react with the dye..exposing any problem area,s….this dye is available at your local radiator shop & they can tell you where to obtain the correct light or possibly allow you to use their,s…good luck!

]]> By: JaneM http://www.carparts21.com/engine-drivetrain/internal-engine-parts/350-chevy-troubles-help/#comment-24562 JaneM Wed, 02 Jun 2010 07:39:59 +0000 http://www.carparts21.com/engine-drivetrain/internal-engine-parts/350-chevy-troubles-help/#comment-24562 chevyrace is correct its the intake gaskets are leaking. my 454 has done this twice. take the intake [mine is aluminum] and turn it over and secure it in a vice or something and manually [with a flat file] go to work. this will show you in short order what condition the ports are in. if things are not to bad [warped or way out of alignment] you can file the ports and ends smooth for a even fit. now this is only "if" the block and intake are not way off . be sure you torque the intake down in proper sequence. save the old oil and use it in your chainsaw....good luck. chevyrace is correct its the intake gaskets are leaking. my 454 has done this twice. take the intake [mine is aluminum] and turn it over and secure it in a vice or something and manually [with a flat file] go to work. this will show you in short order what condition the ports are in. if things are not to bad [warped or way out of alignment] you can file the ports and ends smooth for a even fit. now this is only “if” the block and intake are not way off . be sure you torque the intake down in proper sequence. save the old oil and use it in your chainsaw….good luck.

]]> By: chevyraceman_383 http://www.carparts21.com/engine-drivetrain/internal-engine-parts/350-chevy-troubles-help/#comment-24561 chevyraceman_383 Wed, 02 Jun 2010 06:55:03 +0000 http://www.carparts21.com/engine-drivetrain/internal-engine-parts/350-chevy-troubles-help/#comment-24561 It wasnt the head gaskets the 1st time nor this time. You can swap heads and keep the same gaskets if you never fired the engine or if engine hasnt been sitting for a long time with heads torqued down My guess would be an intake mis alinment due to decking of the block and aftermarket alum heads. What intake gaskets did you use.. The std blue fel pros from your rebuild kit will not work on those heads too well How much was took off the block decks? The intake side of head needs to be machined or the intake its self cut to match. Also the end rails of intake some times needs grinding down on decked blocks Pull your intake off and look for traces of water leakage from the 4 water ports on head. Then clean up heads, sit new side gaskets on and sit your intake on.. Look at the front end of engine where intake and block meets.. Is there a gap, if so how big? Other than the intake leak, the only other probs that will cause water to get into the oil is from a cracked block or head or a really messed up block deck or head gasket Being its never been fired up, blown head gaskets are out of question. But how are you torquing the heads down? Are you going in right order and to the right torque? It wasnt the head gaskets the 1st time nor this time. You can swap heads and keep the same gaskets if you never fired the engine or if engine hasnt been sitting for a long time with heads torqued down

My guess would be an intake mis alinment due to decking of the block and aftermarket alum heads.

What intake gaskets did you use.. The std blue fel pros from your rebuild kit will not work on those heads too well

How much was took off the block decks? The intake side of head needs to be machined or the intake its self cut to match. Also the end rails of intake some times needs grinding down on decked blocks

Pull your intake off and look for traces of water leakage from the 4 water ports on head.

Then clean up heads, sit new side gaskets on and sit your intake on.. Look at the front end of engine where intake and block meets.. Is there a gap, if so how big?

Other than the intake leak, the only other probs that will cause water to get into the oil is from a cracked block or head or a really messed up block deck or head gasket

Being its never been fired up, blown head gaskets are out of question.

But how are you torquing the heads down? Are you going in right order and to the right torque?

]]> By: seadaddy http://www.carparts21.com/engine-drivetrain/internal-engine-parts/350-chevy-troubles-help/#comment-24560 seadaddy Wed, 02 Jun 2010 05:56:37 +0000 http://www.carparts21.com/engine-drivetrain/internal-engine-parts/350-chevy-troubles-help/#comment-24560 How much did they take off the block? .010 would be the max to me. Any more and your intake would need to be machined too so it will fit properly with the heads and block. Also anytime you remove the heads or intake you have to clean the surface and install new gaskets.You know the block is good so you also need to have the heads checked if they aren't new. Follow the proper torque steps also. You also should know that to properly break in the cam you have to bring up the RPM to 2000-2200 for 1/2 hr as soon as it's fired up, change the oil and baby the engine for about 1000 miles BEFORE you put your foot in it. The cam break-in procedure should have came with the cam. Make sure you don't have a set of vortec heads. If so you need vortec intake for proper match. How much did they take off the block? .010 would be the max to me. Any more and your intake would need to be machined too so it will fit properly with the heads and block. Also anytime you remove the heads or intake you have to clean the surface and install new gaskets.You know the block is good so you also need to have the heads checked if they aren’t new. Follow the proper torque steps also. You also should know that to properly break in the cam you have to bring up the RPM to 2000-2200 for 1/2 hr as soon as it’s fired up, change the oil and baby the engine for about 1000 miles BEFORE you put your foot in it. The cam break-in procedure should have came with the cam. Make sure you don’t have a set of vortec heads. If so you need vortec intake for proper match.

]]> By: optionnumber8 http://www.carparts21.com/engine-drivetrain/internal-engine-parts/350-chevy-troubles-help/#comment-24559 optionnumber8 Wed, 02 Jun 2010 05:04:00 +0000 http://www.carparts21.com/engine-drivetrain/internal-engine-parts/350-chevy-troubles-help/#comment-24559 did they pressure test before the bore out to 40 thou over? maybe the problem happened then after the bore out? usually the test is to test the block to make sure it is good but 40 over is alot. also do a compression test once the engine is all togethere. the only other place is the heads and the intake manifold which doesn't make sense you have to do some tests and not just trust the people who worked on it as thing do happen and not because anyone wanted it to happen did they pressure test before the bore out to 40 thou over? maybe the problem happened then after the bore out? usually the test is to test the block to make sure it is good but 40 over is alot. also do a compression test once the engine is all togethere. the only other place is the heads and the intake manifold which doesn’t make sense you have to do some tests and not just trust the people who worked on it as thing do happen and not because anyone wanted it to happen

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