No Start After Changing Dist Cap/rotor Button, Coil

Posted in Ignition Systems
  • Its a chevy 350 engine & I looked under my cap & it was all corroded & rusty. So i took the cap, rotor button, & all the electronic coil stuff out of a new olds dist. All the parts LOOKED the same but it wouldnt start after I put it back together. I also changed out the advance thing too becasue it was rusted stuck. I didnt remove the shaft of the distributor from the engine so the timing should have been the same since I putr the cap back in the exact same place. It just cranks now.

    There are 7 Answers for "No Start After Changing Dist Cap/rotor Button, Coil"

    1. oneiloilojeepney says:

      The distributer advance being clogged should give you a clue that the timing is way off. Loosen the bolt next to the distributer and try adancing/retarding the timing until it starts.
      Then shut it down and get a timing light and some white nail polish so you can mark your timing marks and setting on the crankshaft. You may have to advance it a few degrees because of wear to your timing chain/distributer.

      If the engine was running before all this just change the coil back to the original first. Could be you have a bad coil. There is no way to tell just by looking at it if it’s bad or good.

    2. hammer27545 says:

      did you make sure you put the plug wires back in the same order they where if not you need to do so http://www.boxwrench.net/specs/chevy_sb.htm ^(http://www.carparts21.com/goto/http://www.boxwrench.net/specs/chevy_sb.htm) check this site out for wireing to see if it help

    3. keruptcorruption says:

      I just had a tune up/oil change and had the fuel filter changed in my car account of stalling/ not starting issues and all my car would do is crank

      after spending $443 (w/towing) I get the car home and it doesnt start the very next time I need it. It now seems the ECU is gone

      I cant answer your question but I can ask if your check engine light comes on when you turn the car on (not over) mine will only come on for the second before starting… if I don’t get the light it wont start. After the guy worked on trouble shooting in my driveway =( It was found there was no spark to the plugs and no fuel being moved. He unpluged the battery than the engines computer than repluged in ECU and battery terminals (reseting comp) The car than did start and I was able to drive it back to his shop. Probably not the same issue in your case and I am FAR from an auto mechanic but just maybe I gave you something to look at and/or ask.

      Good luck to you and hopefully I can catch some myself =)

    4. twandrews mechanic 20 years says:

      did you check for spark at a plug … and the rusty dust can give the spark a path to ground …. the coil button that goes between the coil and the rotor button..

    5. Tony M says:

      Have some one to crank over the engine. As it is cranking spray some WD 40 in the carb. If it fires then you have a fuel problem. WD 40 is less harmful to the motor than starting fluid.

      If that don’t work check the rotor. They can actually short through it to ground. In the center of the rotor where the coil makes contact to the distributor shaft where the rotor attaches

      You said that you changed out the advance thing. I and assuming that you changed it insides. Did you check that the vacuum advance? If the vacuum advance is bad it will not start. When they go bad it is like turning off the key and it will not start. I had to change two of those in my life time.

      Hope this helps.
      Good Luck.

    6. Country Boy says:

      The vacuum advance mechanism is completely seperate from the mechanical advance mechanism unless its stuck in a partially open position. Pull the cap and be sure the carbon center post that leads to the coil wire hasen’t been broken off the inside center of the distributer cap. Make sure the rotor blade is straight not broken or bent. Be sure the flyweights weights and springs are free of rust and corrosion. Make sure the advance limiter stop under the breaker plate is in one piece. Is your cystem an HEI or points style distributer?

    7. sidecar0 says:

      1; How long has this engine been sitting or in storage? What year is the engine?
      2; If it was rusted that bad you may have more problems, it might be better to just go ahead and replace the whole distributor. Check the spark plug and coil wires. Check the wires hooked to the side of the coil to make sure they are good and connected properly, check top of coil for corrosion. If the distributor was removed you need the start from step 1 with the distributor timing, take the distributor out, crank the engine “by hand” to TDC for #1 cylinder, install the distributor with the rotor at #1 firring point (Get compression on #1 at the same time to assure you’re not 180 degrees out, lock it down (Tighten the bolts) and see if it starts, at this point you may need some one to help you in cranking the engine while you set the exact timing. Loosen the bolts just a enough so you can rotate the distributor and advance and retard the timing as they crank the engine (you may need a charger hooked up to the battery while you’re doing this to keep it from going dead)

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