My Dodge B1500 1997 Van 3.9L 6cyl. The Van Cuts Offreplaced Many Sensors Any Ideas

Posted in Ignition Systems | Asked on Jun 5, 2010

It happens when I am at a traffic light or after i stop (for gas) and crusing on the highway it starts to cut off the road and I have to restart kommen.Ich think it’s something, because I replaced sensor: fuel pump – ( in-tank) It would be bad anyway, as it turned out (no fuel pressure – not to spec), so it is good warTPS DrosselklappensensorZündspuleDistributor CoilIdle Air CntrolRotor / distbutorPlug DrähteSteckerLuftfilter.Natürlich it runs much better change, because they did not need, but it still stands. Seems to be no way to conditions that occur predict verursachenHerunterfahren to the engine. I noticed the lights had to go again if it was about to stall. But does every time dont have enough $ passieren.I replace all the sensors and / or the EMT-computer (unless you know is that what is wrong). The van starts back up normally, but sometimes with difficulties. Sometimes I have the key off and try again to get it started. Otherwise, if I anfangenAnkurbeln will not fire. It is what it is not always fuel, but, details below, which I replaced haben.Jedenfalls come back no codes. It failed, while on the analyzer and they couldnt even find out. I was a bad relay could be told. I switched to alleidentisch relay, but no luck .————– The parts I will try next is expensive, so narrow, I try this: ZündschlossCrank PositionssensorNockenwinkelsensorMCU (computer) I appreciate any and all Answers. There are no codes and I have replaced the serpentine belt. I replaced all the sensors needed replacement. I’m glad I replaced them. This is 10 year old technology and computers, if you remember, were only barley Pentium chips. Car computers were far behind you, and more. The computer is pretty hot to touch, but I do not know how much heat it can tolerate. For those who say it have to be tested, I need to know what is in the nature of the test equipment that should be used and how much to spend looking for tests. I agree with Chrysler or Dodge would be the best place to test it. But I fear that the 400th 00 surprise bill for the tests must then buy the part and replace it. I would prefer to replace all the parts in a logical sequence and use that $ for parts.

There are 3 Answers for "My Dodge B1500 1997 Van 3.9L 6cyl. The Van Cuts Offreplaced Many Sensors Any Ideas"

  1. 1999 Nissan Skyline GTR Vspec says:

    yes try the parts you listed at the bottom those could be the problem

    check your alternator and alternator belt

    mass air flow sensor

    check your fuses

  2. Wisdom says:

    Test the body grounds
    Wiring harness plugs.
    Harness plug where it goes through the fire wall.
    Look for chafed wiring anywhere it comes close to engine parts.
    Check for broken motor mounts allowing raised engine to short out wiring.
    Bad ignition switch, burnt wiring at any hot plug.
    When it won’t start have someone wiggle the wiring.
    I had a car once refuse to start and died while driving and it turned out to be the starter solenoid plunger was traveling back and forth because someone left off the plunger return spring when replacing a bum starter. Installing a new spring fixed it.

  3. sidecar0 says:

    First, if it was a Sensor It would come up on the Diagnostic Read Out. You Said Part of the Problem: If I try to Start the Engine right after it Dies “It’s Like It’s Getting NO Fuel!” At the Fuel Tank there 2 Air Vents 1 a Small vent Hole in the Fuel Cap (Replace Cap) 2 Vent Tube on the Top of the Tank with a Small hose, Hose or Tube Could be Blocked or Clogged! (As Fuel leaves the Tank a Vacuum is Created, Air comes in through the Vents to Prevent That Vacuum to Maintain Fuel Flow.)

    Alternator: With a Good Charged Battery & Engine Running you should read 12.8V to 13.7v at the Battery Showing you that the Alternator is Working Properly. Also Have the Alternator Tested for a Corrct Amperage Output!

    Battery; If 3 1/2 to 4 1/2 Years Old or looks Swollen (Shorted) on the Sides Replace It! If the Battery Seems good, with it Fully Charged have it “Load Tested” at 50% CCA for 15 Seconds! Battery should Not Drop Below 9.6 Volts During the Test! This shows you that the Battery will Take and Hold a Charge.

    With a Hand Held Gage Check the Fuel Pressure at the Fuel Pump on the Engine or at the throttle Body. If Good Do you have Fuel at the Injectors (Loosen!! “One at a Time”) Lines at the Injectors? (“Take the Coil Wire Off For this Test!!)

    Do you Have Spark at the Plugs? May need New Plug Wires and/or Plugs.

    NOTE; Control units are: ECM (Engine Control Module for the Engime) & ECU (Electronic Control Unit for the Transmission)