I Have A 66 C10 Pickup, Its Been Sitting For 10 Years,and I Cant Get Ne Sparks From My Distributor Points

There are 6 Answers for "I Have A 66 C10 Pickup, Its Been Sitting For 10 Years,and I Cant Get Ne Sparks From My Distributor Points"

1. steve G says:

   Check the coil and see if their is spark and or could be condencer
2. mikey says:

   Almost certainly the points are corroded. You could use a fingernail file to file the contacts (or doubled up sandpaper) or you could replace the points. Of course, you could have left off the wire when you replaced everything else. It runs from the (-) terminal on the coil to the distributor through a gasket and to the points.
3. kool17314 says:

   you must check the coil,and make sure the points are not sticking.
4. Don M says:

   Take an Emery board used to file your fingernails.
   take the cap off and place the emory board in between the points and sand them for a minute. Make sure you have around a 15 thousandths gap when it hits the high on the lobe.
   Spray a little WD 40 inside the cap and wipe it out and then replace the cap and fire it up. make sure you don’t have a broken wire to the distributor.
5. krazybob613 says:

   Check for power to the distributor points when the points are open, you should read ~12 volts, if the voltage is present then change the points. Set the new points to .019″ gap when they are fully open – on the very highest point of the distributor cam.
6. Anthony T says:

   You should replace the cap rotor points condenser, fuel filter(s) air filter element, crank case filter, PCV valve, thermostat, and take all the plugs out put a bit of oil/diesel in each hole overnight. Clean the carburetor thouroughly, ensure the throttle/choke plates etc. move freely, Replace and flush were applicable all engine, trans, coolant, differential, steering hydrolic fluids. crank it over by hand (if you already turned it over with starter, disregard the hand cranking), and if there is gas in the tank, pull the fuel line from the carb and pump some fuel through (crank engine with starter if cam driven pump) and if it smells like laquered, you should flush all the fuel lines, pull the gas tank and take it in to be hot tanked and recoated. change the filters prior to running fresh fuel, and check all the vacuum hoses for dry rotting. replace the ignition wires as well and make sure you have a fully charged battery. If you don’t get spark at this point, check voltage regulator, circuit, and make sure the timing and firing order is correct. Don’t be suprised if main seals fail soon after running again.
   I would also check the wheel bearings for grease and tire pressure. Make sure no brake hydrolics are seized or leaking and that the adjusting screws, parking brake arm and cables are not seized or binding. Replace the windshield wiper blades and check the washer fluid hoses for dry rotting. Check the vacuum hose at transmission modulator for dry rotting as well.
   Check and clean battery cables and grounds. check the fan “V” belts for dry rotting. drop the trans pan and replace the filter if not side mounted, .

   After running, check fluids and look for signs of oil or fluid leaks from time to time, including the trans output seal and pinion seal. Grease all the zerk fittings on u joints, steering and if you have a problem getting grease into the fittings, clean or replace the problem zerks. Check the heater and radiator hoses for stiffness or signs of rotting,

   accelerate gently for awhile to give rings valves etc…time to wear a seal again, and watch the coolant flow in radiator once a running temperature to verify the water is flowing. I’ve seen water pump impellors rust away and no longer move fluid in these circumstatnces. Look at the freeze plugs on the block and if there is any evidence of rust or seepage, replace them as well. check the oil periodically make sure no coolant shows up in the crank case. feel the tail pipe at idle up to 2500 RPM that there is plenty of flow output.

   That should get you started