89 S10, Wanting To Replace The Ignition Control Module, And Probably The Pick Up Coil In The Distributor..

Posted in Ignition Systems

Autozone online is saying that the distributor has to be removed to change these parts, im wondering if i should buy a whole new distributor, but a new one cost $140, if i just buy the parts its only like $60.. anyone know how long it takes to swap out a distributor?? just trying to be cost efficient yet get my truck to stop stalling after driving for a half hour. i never have messed with a distributor before so im wondering the difficulty would be to do it myself, either just the parts or the whole distributor.. any advice would be cool, thanks :)

There are 8 Answers for "89 S10, Wanting To Replace The Ignition Control Module, And Probably The Pick Up Coil In The Distributor.."

    1. phoenixuse says:

      You don’t want to mess w/ the distributor without someone who knows what they are doing because it sets your timing. If you timing is off the valve could contact the piston and you’ll be rebuilding an engine. Also I don’t believe your problem is in the ignition system if it’s stalling after a half hour. An electrical problem should either happen all the time or under load. I would rather think you have a carburetor problem. Probably some crap around the jets, it doesn’t take much to screw with the fuel flow.

    2. wrench'n away says:

      Yes you do have to pull the distributor to change the pick up coil, at least most cars you do.
      I would say that the hardest part is getting the dist. out and back in again correctly. Once you have it out it is not hard to change the coil. Get a repair manual and check it out. See if you’re up to it. Otherwise put it in the shop. You won’ t ruin your engine , don’t worry . I don’t have a clue where some of these guys get their info.

    3. onesmartass2 says:

      If you have HEI ignition then all the parts you want to replace are located inside the distributor under the cap. The distributor does not need to come out, just mark number one cylinder. If you want to replace the distributor then you need to “bump” the motor to top dead center. Remove the retaining nut that holds the distributor in place and pull straight up. To replace, you need to turn the distributor so it will fire number one cylinder, drop into place, tighten bolt then break out with the timing light and set to manufacture recommendations.

    4. michael_stewart32 says:

      ok matt here we go if it is stalling after about half hour check coil first —–then module dont remove distributo for either of these —-if it is the pick up more than likely take you hours to do -(me 15minutes tops) put a mark on your dist. cap to the dist. then mark a spot on your firewall from marks from cap/dist.when you put it back in be in the same place –angles make it differnt-but you realize you have to take dist apart to replace pick up –dont you –go for coil and module first -i havehad to replace 3 pick up coils in 25 years feel freee to e-mail me

    5. mjmik1 says:

      it,s not too hard to do the most important thing is to put the dist. back in the same spot i would crank the engine over so the rotor faces straight back or straight forward so you have to take the cap off first than if you don’t have a timing light mark the base of the dist with a punch and do the same with the block mark the block not the dist. hold down clamp so when you drop the dist back in first piont the rotor to the front or back whichever way you took it out than line up the two punch marks and bolt it down.if the dist gives you trouble dropping in the bottom of the also drives the oil pump it has a flat (like a flat screwdriver) and the oil pump has a slotted hole to match up. if it gives you trouble going in you may have look down into the hole the dist came out of and using a long flat screwdriver to turn the pump manually just make shure you drop the dist in it points exaclly the way you took it out. if you don’t use a timing light and rely on the two punch marks if your timing was off a little it will be off a little if not it should be right on. make shure no one turns the engine over until you are finished

    6. Gary G says:

      Hey Matt,

      The most cost effective and least labor intensive is to the replace the whole distributor. This way you know that the parts are installed correctly.It is easy to replace as long as you pay attentionto what you are doing.

      The way to remove the distributor is this way.
      1. Disconnect the battery (to prevent accidental engine movement)
      2. remove the cap and using white out mark the direction that the rotor points to and position of housing(3 marks, 1 on rotor, 1 on housing, 1 on firewall or engine noting relation to cap keyway)
      3. use distributor wrench and loosen lock down bolt and push back clamp latch(be careful the oil pressure sending unit is close and will break if you slip)
      4. remove distributor noting that the rotor will turn back a little during removal. this is the drive gear disengaging camshaft.
      5. transfer markings and rotor to new distributor
      6. install turning rotor back slightly(Example original rotor pointed to the 12 o’clock position. Turn rotor back to 10 or 11 o’clock then install turning rotor forward untill the rotor catches the camshaft gear.Note that the distributor also drives the oil pump, so if it does not seat completely to the intake, the oil pump drive rod is misaligned.
      7. all marks should realign relatively close. snug clamp latch and bolt so that it will not turn easily, but will turn when light,firm force is applied.
      8. install cap, reconnect battery, start truck, reset timing according to specs. with timing light, tighten lockdown bolt.

      Let me know if you have any questions.

    7. Bill P says:

      Just had that done in my 85 Ck. onesmartass2 is on the money, BUT I wanted the distributor replaced so I had a mcehanic do it for $275, parts and labor. Why? Because it is guaranteed, the timing is set right, and they know what they are doing. It is worth the money.