Does Sticking Camshaft Straight In As Oppose To Degreeing Camshaft In Make Less Power

Posted in Crank, Oil and Piston

Engine Guy also said I do not need rods in a stock balanced rebuild. I need to pony up more money ($ 2200) or my engine out of her?

There are 5 Answers for "Does Sticking Camshaft Straight In As Oppose To Degreeing Camshaft In Make Less Power"

    1. Pedal2TheMetal45 says:

      depending on the cam some are not perfect … that’s where degreeing comes in to play.. But I would say for a straight stock rebuild it won’t really matter as your not looking for max power.
      As for the rods… MMMM… I would think if your going to spend the $$ to have it balanced then do it all..
      good luck

    2. N e says:

      You going to get what you pay for, A stock rebuild is just that, the parts will be factory specs. If you want more performance you will need to pony up and have some line boring and balancing done.

    3. Walt says:

      If it`s a stock rebuild , then you do not need to balance the rods or crank, nor would you be able to ‘ degree’ your camshaft as you would be using a stock cam gear. Sounds like you should just buy a crate motor and be done with it. Unless you are expecting 500+ hp and paying a lot for it , You won`t get anything from a stock rebuild other than what the motor would normally put out.

    4. a_drunken_bum says:

      not exactly, what degreeing your cam does is allow you to slightly advance your cam timing, this moves the power band closer to idle. or retard the cam timing which moves the power higher in the rpm range. connecting rods usually come already balanced, its the flat machined area on the cap. as for the money.. it depends on what you want out of the engine and the car you put it in. I would have the crankshaft balanced myself and then have the rods checked. if you drive the car on the street day to day putting the cam at 0 (zero) is fine. maybe 3 deg advance but no more.

    5. Country Boy says:

      It does absolutely no good to balance the connecting rods without balancing the pistons, wrist pins and crankshaft. The block should be decked so all the pistons arrive at the same height when it’s at top dead center. The main bearing saddles should be lined honed. Cylinder wall to piston scirts should be within factory tolerances. Ring end gaps should be on the money also.

      The rods should be throughly re-conditioned so both ends are round again and the lengths are the same.

      Degreeing a camshaft only checks to see if it’s opening and closing the valves at exactly the right degree. Without a precission timing chain or timing gear set-up and a blueprinted camshaft degreeing a cam is a waste of time. If you have a performance camshaft retarding cam timing *usually increases low end torque. Advancing cam tining increases top end horsepower. Degreeing should only be done a very few degrees (1-2) at a time and this is usually pretty futile without an engine dynometer.

      Your engine man is nuts not to think that balancing and completely blueprinting a motor will make it last longer, create nearly no vibration and make more power. This last paragraph isn’t a maybe either, it always helps a ton.

      Assembley line motors ar iffy at best for maximum performance. A thousandths or a few degrees here and there makes a bug difference.

      Fore the average “grocery getter” for unknowing or careing souls it doesn’t make a hoot of a difference.

      15 minutes behind the wheel of a car with a standard blueprinted motor is an experiance you’ll never forget. Let alone a performance blueprinted engine.

      Blueprinting means every part is examined, cleaned-up and brought into factory tolerances by very precission machining.