Do My Brake Pads Have To Be Changed
Posted in Brake Discs & Pads | Asked on Sep 1, 2010
Below is the question about Do My Brake Pads Have To Be Changed, When I start my car and back it out of the driveway, it makes this long almost cat crying noise that starts to turn into a screeching noise as I drive it. It’s like a bunch of nails scratching the chalkboard type noise. When I brake it goes away and it used to go away after driving it a couple minutes and braking a few times but now it seems to be getting worse. I’m thinking it could be the brake pads but what could be causing the howling noise when I first back up?? TIA for your responses! Btw, I drive a 2003 Mitsubishi Montero Sport and we just put new tires on it but did not get it aligned yet. Money is tight so I’m weary of taking it to a automechanic who will give me a B.S. diagnosis to make me pay for something I don’t need.
There are 3 Answers for "Do My Brake Pads Have To Be Changed"
Break pads have a metal hook on them that make a screeching noise that is telling you that you need new breaks.if your breaks are bad you need to change them or else they will ware down and chew your rotors up and then you will have to shell out more money for breaks and rotors.
Yes, there are wear indicators recessed in the pads that intentionally make noise to tell you the pads need changed.
Most all brake pads have a wear indicator on them… its designed to do just what it doing now: to get you attention before you can do real damage to your brake rotors. when your pads get thin, this wear indicator screams, cries, and is supposed to sound like fingernails on a chalkboard. Simply buy another set of pads, and throw them on….. save your bux; if its in the front its easier. Take the wheels off, loosen but do not remove the brake fluid cover, take the caliper off, use a 6″ “C” clamp to push the piston back in, make sure the inner and outer pads are in the caliper correctly and re-install the caliper. Repeat for the other side. For the rear,(IF you have rear disc brakes) you may have to get a screw type piston tool on loan from Autozone. Use this tool, not the C clamp to get the piston pushed back into the rear caliper…same deal get the inner and outer pads oriented correctly and re-install the caliper. If you have rear drum brakes, the larger brake shoe is the primary load bearing shoe and goes toward the rear on both sides. Simply put every spring, cable and auto-adjuster back in exactly the way it came out,…. adjust the top adjuster to where the drum goes back on snug,…-not tight. Pump brake pedal SLOWLY to seat pads, check brake fluid, add if necessary, screw cover back on tight, enjoy your summer…..
(Note) if when using the C clamp the brake fluid comes out the top and drips out onto the ground, it won’t hurt anything that only means its over-full… it should not be allowed to “spew” or shoot fluid on any external painted surface as it will damage paint. After doing the brake service, make sure the cap is tight and simply rinse liberally with water the area around the fluid reservoir, but DON’T spray any water into the reservoir.