Disc Brakes Are Dragging After Install.
Posted in Brake Discs & Pads | Asked on Sep 1, 2010
Below is the question about Disc Brakes Are Dragging After Install., Alright, first time brake job. I took in all the advice I could etc etc. So final end story I only changes the front roters and pads to drilled and slotted +performance pads. Things they may worry me to suggest I did something wrong. This is a 2004 pathfinder SE automatic 3.5 2wd and 4wd high and low on demand. So, I made everything tight. I didn’t bleed brakes when compressing the cylinders. I did grease all metal to metal contact between pads and calipers. I didnt clean the new roter good enough although did clean with brake cleaner and wiped them down before and after install. I was going to record the install since there is lack of videos on pathfinders to give people an idea but we where trouble shooting and just taking our time to not mess anything up. But ask me anything and I should remeber it down to dotting an I. So final, theirs a drag when driving, no noise intill come down to a complete stop and the noise sounds like a, well i really dont know lol.
The pads I added are ceramic. I also put performance parts into this truck all the time. Suspension, tires, some engine parts, cosmetic. This truck is rarely touched in the after market world and its just to bad. I get complements every where i go and love it. On top of it this is my first vehicle and it’s grown on me so ima keep it till she wont even turn over. But then ill just put a new engine in it! lol thanks for your comments and help. Ill give it some time to break it and post in a week if any trouble comes about.
There are 6 Answers for "Disc Brakes Are Dragging After Install."
The brakes cant make noise if you are stoped
Sounds to me like they are bedding in! I would not worry unless the drag noise stays for a while. When bedding in they come together as a unit until that happens you will get some drag.
Regards & best wishes.
Is there smoke coming out from the wheel? And what type of pads did you use, metallic, ceramic? Did you install the pads right, inner and outer pad? Sure you do not have to replace caliper being you purchased drilled / slotted rotors along with the performance pads these might be a little thicker than you OE ones.
My other question why put performance parts on a SUV ?
There will be a slight drag on the rotor due to the close tolerance. If it is excessive and the rotor is getting hot the caliper pistons are sticking. You may want to replace the calipers anyway to go along with the other goodies you put on.
I had the same problem with an older model nissan I had. The problem I had is that the pistons in the calipers should not be compressed like normal, I normally use a large C-clamp. They should be actually be compressed by screwing them in, I have used a pair of needle nose pliers, but a parts store sells a small cube that has two pegs on all six sides, for many different applications just find the side that fits your pistons, it fits a 3/8 drive ratchet to screw it in. What happens is when you screw it in you are “resetting” the piston from an old brake pad back to a new thicker one. But when you just push it in it leaves residual pressure on the pad from the extra distance it had to travel with the older more worn down pad. I failed to do that and eventually had to replace the whole caliper. You should also check the thickness of the new rotor compared to the old one.
Put in reverse and floor it and slam on them about 10 times this will help seat them in. if they dont seat in soon. once in a while you will ruin a rubber brake hose that doesnt allow the fluid do drain back off so do one thing at a time. a brake hose is around 40 bucks if its that. but try to seat them first.
did your abs come on because you usually have to bleed them at he caliper first.